View Full Version : New Guy: Results from using DC - Paintshop
StuckeyPCS
10-01-2007, 07:50 PM
I stumbled on this site doing some research on the Dupli-Color Paint Shop laquer system and thought I would share my experience so far.
I'm rebuilding a 1990 Nissan 240sx and bought the system to test on a couple panels to see if I will like the outcome or not. From my research and experience I can see that fish eye is going happen nomatter what. I put 1 light coat and 3 medium coats of clear on these headlight covers and they look good enough for not being a traditional urethane base/clear system but I"m concerned with how thin the clear is. Will 1 light & 3 medium coats be enough for me to wet sand the fish eye out?
Thanks for any info.
http://upload.spankdu.com/files/hlc1.jpg
http://upload.spankdu.com/files/hlc2.jpg
6t8dart
10-02-2007, 10:07 PM
I stumbled on this site doing some research on the Dupli-Color Paint Shop laquer system and thought I would share my experience so far.
I'm rebuilding a 1990 Nissan 240sx and bought the system to test on a couple panels to see if I will like the outcome or not. From my research and experience I can see that fish eye is going happen nomatter what. I put 1 light coat and 3 medium coats of clear on these headlight covers and they look good enough for not being a traditional urethane base/clear system but I"m concerned with how thin the clear is. Will 1 light & 3 medium coats be enough for me to wet sand the fish eye out?
Thanks for any info.
http://upload.spankdu.com/files/hlc1.jpg
http://upload.spankdu.com/files/hlc2.jpg
Fisheye is a small spot where there is NO material, usually caused by contamination (grease or silicone). I suspect you are talking about "orange peel", this happens to everybody. It is avoidable, use a really good gun that atomizes very vell, and use a thinner mixture, and coller. dryer weather. Basically, If you put the coats on evenly, then the each sucessive coat will build up on top, and flow out, so you are building thickness, it will be safe to color sand, as long as you stop as soon as you get the texture out. If the orange peel is light enough, you could probably buff it out without wetsanding. But beleive it or not, wet sanding is easier, followed by buffing lightly with a D/A buffer. It can be far more dangeruos to just buff it out, because you will need to put more pressure into it, and you run the risk of burning the paint.
StuckeyPCS
10-03-2007, 07:38 PM
Fisheye is a small spot where there is NO material, usually caused by contamination (grease or silicone). I suspect you are talking about "orange peel", this happens to everybody. It is avoidable, use a really good gun that atomizes very vell, and use a thinner mixture, and coller. dryer weather. Basically, If you put the coats on evenly, then the each sucessive coat will build up on top, and flow out, so you are building thickness, it will be safe to color sand, as long as you stop as soon as you get the texture out. If the orange peel is light enough, you could probably buff it out without wetsanding. But beleive it or not, wet sanding is easier, followed by buffing lightly with a D/A buffer. It can be far more dangeruos to just buff it out, because you will need to put more pressure into it, and you run the risk of burning the paint.
You're right I meant orange peel... I must have not been thinking when I wrote this. lol. I was definitly going to wet sand and buff next. Matter of fact I did a hand job with polishing compound and carnuba wax and it gave it better gloss. I"m spraying with a SataJet gun that my inlaw use to use so I"m sure it's a good gun. Just an inexperienced shooter.
Thanks for the info
Dupli-Color-Specialist
10-04-2007, 08:39 PM
Dart once again thanks for the reply. You are becoming a regular here.
Dart is referring about the orange peel and yes it is pretty much unavoidable. You can buff your parts with a light compound or you can lightly wetsand with 1200-1500 grit paper to knock down that orange peel just a bit which would result in a higher gloss finish. Its your call. Thanks
Hammer
01-02-2008, 05:16 AM
When I did some test painting on mine it was about 55 degrees in shop and I ran the gun operating pressure at 25 to 30 psi and it turned out great. No orange peel at all. This was 4 to 5 coats of hugger orange. At first it had a little orange peel to it but once the last coat dried it was super smooth. Did I get lucky?
chriss68
01-11-2008, 07:51 PM
being my first time painting,I sprayed a few test coats of black last weekend on the trunk lid of my car. came out great w/ some orange peel, but it sanded out w/ no problem. i am becoming a fan of the DP-PS.
Dupli-Color-Specialist
01-18-2008, 05:47 PM
Very cool Chris. The thing is with the new DCPS it does need to be wet sanded considering it is a lacquer. It does come out very nice.
Hammer
02-12-2008, 12:49 AM
Every panel i have sprayed so far has needed no sanding. After clear coating its really smooth. I have not had to sand any paint so far before the clear, but I may try it some as I go along. I love this paint.
chriss68
02-12-2008, 01:01 AM
Every panel i have sprayed so far has needed no sanding. After clear coating its really smooth. I have not had to sand any paint so far before the clear, but I may try it some as I go along. I love this paint.
what air pressure are you spraying it on with? i get a really good finish, but when you lightly sand an area then you can see orange peel. its not much, but i am trying to get that deep glass look.
Dupli-Color-Specialist
02-25-2008, 09:24 PM
what air pressure are you spraying it on with? i get a really good finish, but when you lightly sand an area then you can see orange peel. its not much, but i am trying to get that deep glass look.
chris we found that spraying with around 20-25 psi works best. Higher pressure seems to force dry the paint and since lacquer paint dries so fast as it is, it doesn't need any more help.
JOHNBOY
01-27-2009, 03:13 AM
chris we found that spraying with around 20-25 psi works best. Higher pressure seems to force dry the paint and since lacquer paint dries so fast as it is, it doesn't need any more help.
When you refer to psi values are they at the input to the gun or at the tip? Thanks for the info.
Dupli-Color-Specialist
01-27-2009, 04:47 PM
When you refer to psi values are they at the input to the gun or at the tip? Thanks for the info.
This would be the psi setting at the gun. Always use a regulator at the gun along with an inline filter.
JOHNBOY
01-28-2009, 03:19 AM
Thanks for the info. Great forum!
vBulletin® v3.6.5, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.