How much will I need? Plus a few questions...

[sooner_magic]

I planning on painting my Wrangler (1991) "Brillant Silver". I was wondering about how much paint I will need. Its a soft top Jeep as well. I was thinking 2-3 quarts.

Also, this is my thought process on how this will go:
1. Clean, sand, and tape.
2. Prime over exposed metal and necessary areas.
3. Clean...again
4. Paint. (what setting on the gun and how many coats?)
5. Clear coat. (again, what setting and how many coats?)
6. Let dry/cure for at least 24 hours, then wet sand, compound/buff
7....???

Anything else I need to do?
Also, how do you mask the weather stripping? Will the painters tape stick to it?


Thanks for any input and help!

Sonny

[Dupli-Color-Specialist]

I planning on painting my Wrangler (1991) "Brillant Silver". I was wondering about how much paint I will need. Its a soft top Jeep as well. I was thinking 2-3 quarts.

Also, this is my thought process on how this will go:
1. Clean, sand, and tape.
2. Prime over exposed metal and necessary areas.
3. Clean...again
4. Paint. (what setting on the gun and how many coats?)
5. Clear coat. (again, what setting and how many coats?)
6. Let dry/cure for at least 24 hours, then wet sand, compound/buff
7....???

Anything else I need to do?
Also, how do you mask the weather stripping? Will the painters tape stick to it?


Thanks for any input and help!

Sonny

Sonny you have the right idea. I have made a few tips for you.

1. Clean, sand, and tape. Scuff with 320 and final sand with 600. Tape should stick to rubber weather stripping. It you can remove it then that would be a better choice. Use low tack tape so you don't tear the weather stripping when you pull the tape off.
2. Prime over exposed metal and necessary areas. Depending on the color you going over you might want to prime the entire jeep. This will make for a more uniform color coat with less color needed for even coverage. 2-3 coats will work out well.
3. Clean...again. Correct
4. Paint. (what setting on the gun and how many coats?). 1.4 spray tip. HVLP gun 15-20 psi. Conventional spay gun 30-40 psi. 2-3 coats. When ever you spray metallic you are going to want to keep it relatively light to avoid metallic striping. Check out the vids on our site or on YouTube.
5. Clear coat. (again, what setting and how many coats?) Same gun settings. 5-6 coats of clear. Heavy on the clear because this is what you will be wet sanding with 2000 grit to buff on.
6. Let dry/cure for at least 24 hours, then wet sand, compound/buff. Correct. Let dry for AT LEAST 24 hours.

7. ENJOY!

[sooner_magic]

Sweet thanks for the tips!

So 3 quarts of each stage is sufficient?

It currently is Midnight Blue, so prime will probably be a must, right?

Thanks again!

[Mustangerpvg]

Sooner,

Plz post pics when you're done. I'm planning on the silver too and would like to see how it looks. When are you shooting?

Good luck!

[Dupli-Color-Specialist]

Sweet thanks for the tips!

So 3 quarts of each stage is sufficient?

It currently is Midnight Blue, so prime will probably be a must, right?

Thanks again!

Sooner,

Yeah if you are going from a blue to a silver then a primer is a must to achieve even color coverage. 3 quarts of primer should be all you need give or take. Color might take 4-5 quarts and the clear can be left up to you. I always say 5 good coats of clear works well.

[sooner_magic]

I finished on wednesday morning and let it sit until today around 5pm before I started wet sanding. I did 5 coats of clear and it still is not glossy. Its more of a satin finish.

What should be my next move?

Also, there are some spots where im not happy with the color. Like some dust hit it. Im guessing, sands down the entire car to smooth everything out, hit it with a coat of color then (How many?) coats of clear.

And finally, hahaha, what is the perfect technique for clear coat? I wasnt expecting to have a satin finished car...

Thanks for the help!

[chriss68]

I finished on wednesday morning and let it sit until today around 5pm before I started wet sanding. I did 5 coats of clear and it still is not glossy. Its more of a satin finish.

What should be my next move?

Also, there are some spots where im not happy with the color. Like some dust hit it. Im guessing, sands down the entire car to smooth everything out, hit it with a coat of color then (How many?) coats of clear.

And finally, hahaha, what is the perfect technique for clear coat? I wasnt expecting to have a satin finished car...

Thanks for the help!

You will always have a satin look after wet sanding. you will need to buff it after wet sanding using buffing compounds. buffing is very important. technique is everything. if you use a high speed buffer be sure not to buff too long in one area of you will burn through the clear and color. duplicolor clear will shine like glass if you buff it. take your time!!!!

[sooner_magic]

I did buff after wetsanding. I used 2000 grit paper, Meguiars buffing compound, and the wool pad on a porter cable orbital polisher.

It currently has a gallon of clear on the car. Do I need to add more to get it to look like this? : http://www.anthonythomas.com/garage/forums/showthread.php?t=172

[chriss68]

I did buff after wetsanding. I used 2000 grit paper, Meguiars buffing compound, and the wool pad on a porter cable orbital polisher.

It currently has a gallon of clear on the car. Do I need to add more to get it to look like this? : http://www.anthonythomas.com/garage/forums/showthread.php?t=172

if there is clear on the car it should shine no matter how much is on the car. a porter cable buffing wheel does not spin nearly fast enough for buffing. if it's the same one i'm thinking of. you need a buffing wheel that spins up to 3000rpm. dewalt makes a good one. 3m buffing compound is the best in my opinion. 3m makes a 3 step polishing system cllaed "perfect it".also, what is the temperature and are you buffing in the sunlight?

[sooner_magic]

Im going to finish the rest of the buffing and sanding tonight. Heres the Porter Cable I have: http://www.autogeek.net/poca74pofcop.html
It says up to 6000. What setting shoulg it be on? Mine has 1-6 I believe. Thanks for the input. Ill post some pics when it looks better! haha

[chriss68]

Im going to finish the rest of the buffing and sanding tonight. Heres the Porter Cable I have: http://www.autogeek.net/poca74pofcop.html
It says up to 6000. What setting shoulg it be on? Mine has 1-6 I believe. Thanks for the input. Ill post some pics when it looks better! haha

ok. that buffer should work just fine. remember to stay out of the sunlight when buffing. you want the surface of the car cool when buffing to prevent burning through.

[Dupli-Color-Specialist]

sooner, speed isn't always better when buffing. If you run up the buffer too fast you will burn the paint. You really don't need anything faster then 2000-2500 rpms. Make sure you keep the buffer moving or that will burn the paint as well. Using the 2000 grit paper is good and use the 3M compound as suggested. You must use a whool wheel then a foam waffle pad with a lighter compound. 3M has that too and it says FOAM Pad on the label. It is part of the "Perfect It" line. I hope this helps.

[sooner_magic]

I have to apply some of the vehicles logos and engine size labels. Is krylon fusion safe on lacquer? Also, can I clear the area then blend it in by wet sanding it smooth to the surrounding area?

[Dupli-Color-Specialist]

I have to apply some of the vehicles logos and engine size labels. Is krylon fusion safe on lacquer? Also, can I clear the area then blend it in by wet sanding it smooth to the surrounding area?

Sooner sincer the Paint Shop line is lacquer you are going to want to stick with top coating with lacquer paint. If you apply enamel over lacquer you will have lifting issues. Krylon Fusion is an enamel product. I am going to suggest looking into our General Purpose lacquer line for any customer aerosol work over the Paint Shop.

[sooner_magic]

Do I need to apply a clear over it or is it fine?

[Mustangerpvg]

Well????????? Sooner, How did it turn out?